1965 ducati narrow case

[flanker]

Thx Bob hope your feeling better!

Yesterday I went to really great electronics store in torrance. No frills but they were quite knowledgable and stocked with supplies. I picked up all the wiring supplies including a suitable relay.

A relay for the horn you say? Same situation as the ignition. In another words what will the relay be doing for the horn?

The warning lights are the pigtail variety i think, but must confirm when I get home.

For the front brake light switch, someone suggested I can use one off a norton commando, which I think I have, or is there a better option.

Looking forward to some crimping in the near future, thx Rob

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= flanker ...
" I picked up all the wiring "

____ Good-quality electrical-wire possesses a greater number of finer wire-strands which softly flex and don't remain rigidly bent as left, whereas cheap-wire rather has fewer/thicker individual strands which are stiff & brittle. _ So I recommend avoiding the cheap-stuff !



" A relay for the horn you say?
what will the relay be doing for the horn? "

____ It's fairly commonly known that high-amperage horns overtax standard horn wire/connection circuitry, and-thus are apt to benefit from more direct current sources which std.type horn circuitry doesn't have to offer.
So by having a relay supply just the horn-itself with rather direct-connections to the pos.battery-post & ground, the horn-button & fuse & related extended wiring are then all bypassed so that those relatively wasteful horn-circuit hoops&jumps can't impede the then independent current-flow which actually powers-up merely-just the horn itself ! _ That way, the horn-button and all it's rather extended wiring only needs to handle merely-just the vastly reduced amperage of just the relay itself, (which is quite likely less than 5% of the current conducted by a std.horn).
Mechanical-type HORN-relays specifically employ electrical-contacts which more easily conduct the high-current drawn by high-power horns !
__ I could modify the horn-circuit of the latest master-diagram to reflect the wiring-scheme that would be more suited for a high-amperage horn (with or without a horn-relay). _ Then you could later decide whether the additional step of including a horn-relay is really actually-necessary for your particular high-power horn. _ However without inclusion of the horn-relay, the horn-button would then be activatable without the key-switch being turned-on. _ (I-myself see such a keyless-feature as being rather desirable,, cuz then that-way, if someone [like kids !] are messing-around with your Duke, they're fairly apt to try-out pressing the handlebar-button and consequently sounding-off the horn, thus-then likely scaring them away and/or alerting you to the fact that someone is messing-with your Duke !)



" The warning lights are the pigtail variety i think, "

____ If they only have a single-wire pigtail, then they're the physically-grounded type and-thus have limited use !



" For the front brake light switch, someone suggested I can use one off a norton commando, "

____ A front brake-cable (with b.switch) of a newer Mototrans Duke-model, would be a straightforward fit.



" Looking forward to some crimping "

____ If you post a pic of your crimping-tool, I may then have some insightful comments to offer.


Duke-Cheers,
-Bob

[flanker]

Bob I uploaded 2 crimper tools that I own. One is just the regular off the shelf and the other is for barrel connectors! thx Rob

[flanker]

here are the "idiot lights" Ive managed to acquire! thx rob

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= flanker ...
" I uploaded 2 crimper tools that I own. "

____ Thanks for posting pix of both the best & worst examples of wire-terminal crimping-tools !
__ I'd advise avoiding use of the cheap-one which crimps with merely female indentationing !
However the good-one which appears to 'crimp' by pressing a male-protrusion in-towards a female-recess, is the superior type of crimping-tool that I'd recommend !
__ My experienced advice for using these best examples, is to avoid pressing the male-tip into the area of the terminal-shank where the C-shape of the shank-seam/split is located. _ In other-words, always take-care to arrange the protruding-tip of the crimping-cavity so that it places it's single crimping-indentation 180-degrees around oppositely away-from the terminal-shank's split-seam. _ That way, a rather neat & firm grip of all the wire-strands is better accomplished !


Enlightening-Cheers,
-Bob

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= flanker ...
" here are the "idiot lights" Ive managed to acquire! "

____ Thanks for the pic.
__ Somewhat unfortunately, none of them are the more useful type which can be rather universally connected-up to any circuit-type,, as they're dependent-on their 'physical-ground' circuit !
However they can still be used with most of your indicator-circuits, (except for the 'Ignition Warning' lamp-circuit).
__ For your one indicator-circuit that really requires both wire-leads,
doesn't your stock headlamp still contain it's charging-indicator tube-bulb holder (which doesn't have any ground-connection) ?


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

[flanker]

How about these Bob?

Photo on 5-11-15 at 4.58 PM.jpg

[flanker]

These are the ones that were on the bike since I've had it....

Photo on 5-11-15 at 5.06 PM.jpg

[DewCatTea-Bob]

[quote= flanker ...
" How about these Bob? "

____ That pair of pilot-lamps are also dependent on their physical-ground in order to have a workable power-circuit !



" These are the ones that were on the bike "

____ Those two are obviously not the same.
Your bottom-left example is certainly not stock, however it appears to have both of it's circuit connections separately available from ground,, so if it carries some-kind of light that can be powered-up by your battery, then it's what you'll need for your 'Ignition Warning' indicator-circuit.
The last pilot-lampshell appears to be part of a stock-pre'66 indicator-setup, but I don't know for-sure whether it was originally intended to work with the charging-indicator or the parking-light or the high-beam*idiot-light (* which it's remaining red-tint may've been meant for).
__ How many indicator-lamps do you intend to make-use of, altogether ?



____ I'm left to assume that you don't have the stock headlamp along-with it's stock internal-parts still left intact. (?)
__ Does the 12v.light-bulb you acquired fit your headlamp okay, and is it of the type that's compatible with a parking-light setup ?


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

[flanker]

Bob some answers to your questions:

1. How many indicator-lamps to make use of
I went back to your wiring diagram and it shows: main beam warning, charge light, Ignition warning. So 3 is the answer, unless I have overlooked something. I see another light connected via a white wire from the lighting switch and I assume that is the parking light???

2. I have the stock headlamp. Ordered a new rim replacement as the stock was beyond repair. Its the 150 mm bigger light, that I think went with the 1965 monza 250. What I took out of the inside (minus the 2 indicator lights see previous photo) is shown in the photo below. I believe the the parking light is attached to the white bulb holder. An amazing note (at least I think it is) the 6v battery pictured is stamped 1965. So it could be the original but who knows... The other bulb is a 12v and fits nicely.

IMG_0003.jpg

3. I may have to search out an ignition warning light. The one you indicated in my picture looks beat up.... Its yellow. I understand now it needs both circuit connections to function.

Thx Rob