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I have now got an SS2 bowl for my 29D carb, to change the fixed bowl i will need a new banjo for the bottom of the carb. Does anyone know if any other parts need changing? the exploded views seem to suggest this. I'm working on a bracket to mount to the frame spine .

You probably know this, but just in case, before you weld a bracket to the frame, here is the Dellorto spec for how to mount the remote bowl.

This is the important part larger:

The 35mm dimension appears to be from the lip of the removable top of the float bowl.
Can't say what parts you need, but it looks like just the bottom mount fuel banjo would do.
Rick

This is, to my mind, a better description of setting the fuel level in a remote float bowl- it's from the manual for the Aermacchi/Harley Sprint CRS. You don't need the transparent line connected to the carb body- the body just provides a reference point- this method is easier I think. The carb body is of course horizontal on the Aermacch engine, but the method works regardless of the body orientation.

I think these little Harley/Aermacchi racers were only sold in the US- too bad for the rest of the world, I have a CRS and an ERS, and they're about my favorite motorcycles- they don't have the mechanical beauty of the Ducati engine, but they ruled the tracks around here when I was growing up in the sixties.
Rick

Hi Rick, My 250 is running pretty well but i have magic memories of a Mach1 that was supplied new set up to be a production racer by Vic Camp,it had a remote float and was very fast.Isolating the float from the motor vibrations stops frothing at high revs and helps performance. That bike would go to 8500 in 5th gear and hit 104 mph leaving 500/650 bikes in its wake.

It's good to hear that you're going with the SSI instead of using something modern. I've read many road tests from the sixties written by professionals with lots of experience, and no one ever complained about the SSI carburetor or the engine's response. I imagine once they got worn people concluded they were an inferior instrument, but I'm hoping that restored to good working condition they'll be more than adequate- I'll be happy with a motorcycle that performs as well as it did back 'in the day'.
The reason I sent the info on float height is that I could imagine myself sort of eyeballing a good location for the bowl and not realizing until after welding, painting, etc, that I hadn't accounted for setting the correct fuel level in the bowl, and my adjustment range wasn't right.
Hope the remote bowl works out.
Rick

HI Rick, As my bike is powdercoated and finished i am making a curved mount that will bolt to threaded holes on the spine , it will have a slotted exstension to mount the float like the F3 racers.

Hi Bob,
I would be keen to know how you get on with the remote.I have a 125 sport with a ss23 with remote bowl.I havent set it up yet.I also am restoring a mach1 so any tips are wellcome.Pm me if you prefer.
Steve

Hi 3564cam, I had a Mach1 which came new with a remote bolted to a flat slotted plate which was welded to the frame, I have had the notion that this was a modification by the dealer who set up some bikes for production racing and a race school,i now think it came from the factory like this, probably for no better reason than to use up expensive stocks of Dellorto parts.I would be interested if anyone knows any more about such variations.

Hi Bob,
I am running a SS2 on my 250 n/c, I made a bracket to mount it as like you this was a after fitment so frame was painted, I am building another bike and this time I will be wielding a bracket like the F3 to the frame. These can be a bit tricky to set up, I use the drip factor, as I found it hard to see the pipe once the bowl was mounted.
PM me, I can send you some pic's and maybe be able to help you.

Regards
JasonB

Hi JasonB, that looks simple and neat .