Aye halfpast,
Would agree with Nigel that steady pressure on a "long extension" should work. I use a 60cm or 2' knuckle bar and if more pressure is required a 100cm or 3' length of scaffolding pipe can be added. The latter was required before I had an impact driver, either air or electric and the crank nut had been tightened after application of a 'stud lock' grade of thread adhesive. Reference George's "mega strong stuff"!
Now that I have an impact driver, I find it very good for removing these nuts. BUT! PLEASE DO NOT USE THE IMPACT DRIVER TO RE-TIGHTEN THE NUT ON ASSEMBLY! Use an accurate torque wrench set to 65ft-lb (Foot-pounds) or 88Nm (Newton-meters) and ensure that the thread is lubricated, not dry. Nigel may care to comment upon the torque value that I use?
Heat to weaken "mega strong stuff", is good providing that you don't destroy the temper of your drive gear or cook the alternator either electrically or magnetically!
Bevel Bob's drilling the wee holes in the nut and splitting the nut off, should be regarded as the last resort, but there is nothing "wrong" with the technique. Just hope that the "mega strong stuff" hasn't been applied to the inside of the driven gear and or the alternator flywheel taper to hold the alternator flywheel in place. Usually found because the taper has been chewed up when the nut slackened off after the motor was lugged in too higher gear, or insufficiently tightened earlier in its life!
Good luck, Bill