Motoscrubs.com

Are these things gold plated? I won't say where I got that price, but is there someplace else that has better pricing?

Steve

Hi Steve

Stein-Dinse in Germany sells them for 5.20 euro

Eldert

another place for dellorto parts is dellorto.co.uk
they also have some stuff that nobody else does
http://www.dellorto.co.uk/shop/jets-needles-floats-calibrated-parts/e-type-needle-vhbz-20-26mm/

[quote= STEVENM63 ...
" E16 jet needle? "

____ So just why do you think you need one ?


____ Your new thread-post leads me to assume that you've run the suggested trail-test with battery-powered ignition, and yet you still found your eng.running-issue to remain unchanged,, so-thus you've come to next suspect that the running-issue must be the carburetion.
Well that possibility would certainly be quite a likelihood if your carb happens to be totally missing it's needle-valve,, but if the needle's condition is all that's been found to be questionable (concerning your carb), then there's other possibilities to suspect, (such as camshaft-timing).
__ Please don't use this new thread (concerning carburetion issues) to continue-on with where your other/(ignition-issue)- thread has been left-off at.
Still looking-forward to your result-report with the battery-ignition test-trail outcome rather posted within your other-thread !


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

DewCatTea-Bob wrote:[quote= STEVENM63 ...
" E16 jet needle? "

____ So just why do you think you need one ?


____ Your new thread-post leads me to assume that you've run the suggested trail-test with battery-powered ignition, and yet you still found your eng.running-issue to remain unchanged,, so-thus you've come to next suspect that the running-issue must be the carburetion.
Well that possibility would certainly be quite a likelihood if your carb happens to be totally missing it's needle-valve,, but if the needle's condition is all that's been found to be questionable (concerning your carb), then there's other possibilities to suspect, (such as camshaft-timing).
__ Please don't use this new thread (concerning carburetion issues) to continue-on with where your other/(ignition-issue)- thread has been left-off at.
Still looking-forward to your result-report with the battery-ignition test-trail outcome rather posted within your other-thread !


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

Bob,
No, I haven't yet done the battery test. I am currently out of town so I won't be back in the garage for a few days. As for the carb, when doing a cleaning I noticed a few things that could stand to be replaced (gaskets, etc.) My question, while specific, was a general question about pricing.

Throwing money and parts at a bike in an attempt to solve problems is usually an admission by the mechanic that he doesn't know what's wrong. When working on 50-year-old motorcycles it's best to assume that everything is messed up. You should confirm for yourself that these items are correct: cam timing, valve settings, ignition timing, carb settings. Only after all the basics have been sorted should you start to look for something out of the ordinary.

If everything on the carb seems correct (all jetting as per the manual, float level correct, no air leaks, etc.), yet you still suspect a carb problem, replace it with a known good carb and see if the problem disappears.

If you suspect that the needle is worn out (bike running too rich in the mid-range), dropping the needle one position can cure that.

You can make your own carb needles with a hobby lathe. The gamble racers in Japan make all their own carb needles, allowing them to precisely tune their engines to suit their needs. It ain't rocket science, all you need is a pair of dial calipers and some patience.

Non-standard mufflers and air cleaners (or the lack of such) can also drastically affect carburetion.

Heck, the top end comes off with only four bolts, so it's best to just pull it apart and have a look-see.

I agree with nick, it seems like you are not taking a methodical approach to figuring out your problem. assume everything is wrong until you check it. from your first post it seemed likely you had a carb problem. then you started a new post where it seemed you are assuming you have an ignition problem. do one thing at a time and sort it out completely with no doubt that it's correct. if you have the stock carb and it's totally clean and set up the way it came then it has to be right. if you have any doubt it's clean then it isn't.

tell us what you are finding when working on the bike. you are mostly just asking questions but there is little follow up as to what you are doing to the bike.
did you ever check the compression? what is it?
if you have low compression you are wasting your time trying to get it running because it will never run well.

let us know what you are finding out with the
bike and we can help you better
good luck

Nick,
When I search Gamble Racers, Racing, etc, all I get is gambling sites- do you have a link that show how they make needles? Turning an accurate taper on a 0.095" diameter rod is not a trivial job- they must have developed a pretty clever method.
Rick

Ah, if only it were so easy.... You must remember that the gamble racers are some of the most professional motorcycle racers in the world, in that they not only earn big bucks, they build and tune their own motorcycles. Their skills have been learned and honed over many years of painstaking effort. They are the Zen masters of motorcycle racing. And, like any master craftsman who earns his living with his skills, they aren't about to give that knowledge away. Hard-earned knowledge is carefully guarded; dues must be paid to attain it.

If you're interested in reading about the gamble racers, here's a link: http://www.superbikeplanet.com/2005/Jan/050111k.htm

If you want to try your hand at making carb needles, get a small lathe, some brass stock and pair of good dial calipers and have at it.

And if you want your Duc to run better, ditch that stock carb and put a round-slide Mikuni on it (which is what did on my 350 Sebring).

Good luck, and don't forget to keep us updated -- with pics!

Nick wrote:Throwing money and parts at a bike in an attempt to solve problems is usually an admission by the mechanic that he doesn't know what's wrong. When working on 50-year-old motorcycles it's best to assume that everything is messed up. You should confirm for yourself that these items are correct: cam timing, valve settings, ignition timing, carb settings. Only after all the basics have been sorted should you start to look for something out of the ordinary.

If everything on the carb seems correct (all jetting as per the manual, float level correct, no air leaks, etc.), yet you still suspect a carb problem, replace it with a known good carb and see if the problem disappears.

If you suspect that the needle is worn out (bike running too rich in the mid-range), dropping the needle one position can cure that.

You can make your own carb needles with a hobby lathe. The gamble racers in Japan make all their own carb needles, allowing them to precisely tune their engines to suit their needs. It ain't rocket science, all you need is a pair of dial calipers and some patience.

Non-standard mufflers and air cleaners (or the lack of such) can also drastically affect carburetion.

Heck, the top end comes off with only four bolts, so it's best to just pull it apart and have a look-see.

Nick,
While I would certainly not consider myself an expert mechanic, I am hardly "throwing money and parts at a bike in an attempt to solve problems (as) an admission by the mechanic that he doesn't know what's wrong". I am, with the help of the experienced members of this forum, attempting to sort out what appears to be an ignition issue. If you read my posts above, I was replacing carb gaskets, and while looking I noticed pricing seemed to me to be considerably high on a specific website (E16 needle as an example). I mentioned nothing about replacing needles, jetting, needle height, fuel mixture, etc in the post above. My query was about finding more reasonably priced parts sources.

Steve