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Here is what I have. I originally thought I had a red and black wire, but upon further examination i have yellow wires soldered to a red and black wire.
Edit------> After looking at all the clues, I can now say with confidence that this stator is from a 1966 250 5speed Monza.

And here is my fly wheel. The aluminum one on the right. Some of the rivet heads are cut off, and it looks like someone cut a groove with a chisel.... .
The one on the left is a heavy brass(?) flywheel that I picked up today. Can I use the brass one? The tapered hole looks the same, the OD is the same. It might take more horse power to get it turning, but will maintain rotation longer when slowing down. What do you think?

" Here is what I have. "

____ This stator-model is that of a narrow-case battery-powered Duke-model, such as a 5-speed Monnza,, and is commonly known as the "60watt alternator".
It's of the: 6-pole ; 4 power-coil ; twin wire-lead ; internally grounded , stator-type.



" And here is my fly wheel.
Can I use the brass one?
the OD is the same. "

____ The 'ID' would be of more concern.
Do you know what engine-model it originally came from ? - (I suspect an early-68 350-Scr.)
Either should work okay, so long as it fits and the rotor-magnets haven't been in a fire or repeatedly dropped hard.
As a test, set them both against something like a refrigerator and see which is easiest to slide down. - (If their magnets are equally strong, then the brass-rotor should slide-down only SLIGHTLY easier.)



" What do you think? "

____ The brass-rotor should make kick-starting more successful (with softer kick-backs), and work better to maintain regular idle-speed. _ While the difference in acceleration (in gear) is not notable !
__ You're going to have to add-on new/replacement wire-leads !
What do you expect to have your Duke's electrical load-system consume power-wise, same as stock ?


Dukaddy-DUKEs,
-Bob

"As a test, set them both against something like a refrigerator and see which is easiest to slide down.*

If you have a wife/girlfreind best to check with them first before carrying out this test!!

Nigel

I have motorcycle parts in at least 3 rooms in my house. I build wheels on my dining room table, clean parts in my sink, paint and polish on my poarch.
My girlfriend only complains sometimes.
If I checked a rotor on my refrigerator, that would be crossing the line.

If you are interested in trying to repair your alloy rotor, let me know. Im not sure how you would affix it to the flywheel, but i do have a spare inner hub in nice condition that was removed from a damaged rotor, if you think you could attach it successfully you can have the part...

Joe

joe46ho wrote:If you are interested in trying to repair your alloy rotor, let me know. Im not sure how you would affix it to the flywheel, but i do have a spare inner hub in nice condition that was removed from a damaged rotor, if you think you could attach it successfully you can have the part...

Joe

Hey Joe, That would be awesome! I will make some new rivets and assemble accordingly.
The thread is so boogered up that a Ducati flywheel puller cant be used on it.
Thankyou, Thankyou.

DewCatTea-Bob wrote:Do you know what engine-model it originally came from ? - (I suspect an early-68 350-Scr.)

What do you expect to have your Duke's electrical load-system consume power-wise, same as stock ?

I do not know what engine it came from, I found it in a box of parts. "(I suspect an early-68 350-Scr.)" Would that be a wide case? So no problems putting it on a N case?

I am hoping to return it to street legal. So all the stock type lighting. But I am kicking around the thought of 12volt conversion.

If you have a wife/girlfreind best to check with them first before carrying out this test!

____ I most-always take extra-care to make-sure that my posted-wording leaves as little wiggle-room as possible for MIS-interpretation,, so when my chosen wording stated: "something like a refrigerator", I thus-then expect that most-all of everyone's female-partner/mates would not miss that distinguished-detail, (as they would more-so realize that they already have their kitchen-frig pretty-well covered-up with frig.magnets, and-so there'd be no room for such rotor-magnet testing THERE).



" I will make some new rivets and assemble accordingly. "

____ That would be worthwhile to save a rotor which contains a set of healthy/full-strength magnets but, making absolutely sure that your chosen replacement-rivets are installed at least as strong & reliable as the stock-rivets were, is really not worth any benefit which the alloy-rotor has over your brass-rotor.
While it's quite logically true that an engine will certainly spin-up a bit quicker in neutral with a lighter flywheel, the difference in acceleration in gear is not notable,, and even under full-out racing-conditions, the slight advantage of the lighter rotor is no more advantageous than something like racing with your fuel-tank carrying one liter/quart less fuel.
So unless your Duke is intended to be solely used for racing, the brass-rotor offers better & more useful advantages and-thus ought to be preferred.



" Would that be a wide case? "

____ Yes, as WideCase motors became available beginning for the 1967 model-year.



" So no problems putting it on a N case? "

____ Unless it didn't come from a DUCATI, I believe it should fit the crankshaft. ...
__ Have you yet checked to make-sure the stator-cavity IDs are the same for both rotors ?



" So all the stock type lighting. "

____ That's okay of-course but, I'd expect a brighter headlight would be a likely desire.



" I am kicking around the thought of 12volt conversion. "

____ That's a good idea which ought to be well considered.
In any case, you should opt to wire-up your stator so that ANY feasible option could possibly be employed.
That means replacing the stock twin wire-lead / internally-grounded setup, with a dual-twin -(two pairs) wire-lead setup.
__ Can you relatively easily accomplish your own stator rewiring & soldering work ?


Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob

DewCatTea-Bob wrote:

____ That's a good idea which ought to be well considered.
In any case, you should opt to wire-up your stator so that ANY feasible option could possibly be employed.
That means replacing the stock twin wire-lead / internally-grounded setup, with a dual-twin -(two pairs) wire-lead setup.
__ Can you relatively easily accomplish your own stator rewiring & soldering work ?Hopeful-Cheers,-Bob

+

I have read some of the threads on hear about changing the wiring to accomplish this, But they are lengthy and go into alot of theory, and use terms that I have heard, but am not familiar with.
I am quite capable of soldering and wiring......but there would have to be step by step directions with diagrams for me to accomplish this. If there is a thread already here like this, please let me know.
Thanks for all your responses Bob.