Late narrowcase battery box

[DewCatTea-Bob]

' How do I determine which amp mag I have if it's disassembled? "

____ In any case, (without me being able to look-over your alt.stator), you need to be able to test the circuits of the stator-coils, in order to be sure of which model (28w or 40w) of alternator you have! _ Do you have either of the previously mentioned tools for checking circuits?
__ Also, you wish to duplicate the "SCR/Mach1" system... Did you actually mean the old Motocross/SCR & Mark3 type system? _ Cuz the Mach1 system is a totally different system which requires a battery!
__ I think that we either need to talk, or have you post many pictures of what all you actually have...
As I'm not sure what you mean by a "6-sided headlight", for one thing. - (Seems like you might have parts from a Monza, instead of a 1966-SCR.)
Whatever the actual case is, nobody can guide you any better than myself ! _ Regardless of whether you wish to restore back to stock, or only make something that works for you from scratch! _ As I've done it all, many times!!


Your Top DUKE-Expert,
DCT-Bob

[kmev]

Yes, I did mean to say that I intended to use the SCR/Mark 3 wiring schematic. The headlight I'm using is the "square" style from the later Monza/Sebrings.

Here is an image of my magneto. There are two yellow wires and one red. I do have an ohm-meter and would very much like to know how to determine what wattage it is. I am also very interested to know if this can be wired for 12v as you described for the widecase alternators in the Dynamo thread.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" The headlight I'm using is the "square" style from the later Monza/Sebrings. "

____ Alright then, that style headlight was used on the 1966 Sebring & Monza models and also on the '66 160 Monza Jr. _ Now if you happen to have one from a MonzaJr, then it should have all the same parts as your '66-SCR ought to have! _ Otherwise it's internal-wiring will be no good match for your restoration needs!
If you could post a picture of it's inside (from the front), then I could quickly tell which it actually is.



" There are two yellow wires and one red. I do have an ohm-meter and would very much like to know how to determine what wattage it is. "

____ I can tell by your picture that you have either the older "40 watt" alt, or the newer so-called "28 watt" alt. ...
Either model actually has 1 red-wire, 1 yellow-wire, & 1 white-wire!! - (The white-wire gets a yellow-tint when left exposed after a few years!)
If you slice-off some of the outer black-conduit, you may then see all three wire colors at their original brightness.
____ It's easy to determine which alt.model you actually have, with the use of an ohm-meter! ...
With the meter set at a low setting, firmly touch one of the meter's leads against stator-plate, and it's other lead to each of the stator's 3 wire-leads, one at a time.
If you indeed have the correct 28-watt alt.model, then the meter's needle-pointer will move towards zero, in all 3 cases!
However with the 40-watt alt.model, the meter's pointer will only move if the meter's other lead is connected to the lighting-coil's wire-lead! _ While connection to the other two wire-leads, should leave the pointer totally unbudged! -(As the wire-leads for the ignition & brake-light circuit, are kept from being grounded to the stator-plate!)



" I am also very interested to know if this can be wired for 12v as you described for the widecase alternators in the Dynamo thread "

____ Well now you've asked a question which can't be so simply answered! ...
As this type of stator is wired-up in a very much different manor than the wide-case type of stator!!
As the stator normally is, the answer could only be yes IF you were to run both positive AND negative wires as well, to all the lights! _ And that wouldn't work unless all your lights were kept isolated (from ground) within plastic holders or mounted within plastic shells. -(Not stock-like metal items!)
Otherwise, depending on which alt.model you have, the stator's power-coil connections would have to be redone one way or another!
__ I've never actually tried modifying one of these Scrambler-type 4-pole alt.stators and then try to run a 12-volt system with it, but, I do know that it could work! _ However, I'm sure that it would be a weak system, and the RPMs would have to be increased to at least 142% as high, in order for a 12-volt battery to receive charging-current equal to what a 6-volt battery requires. - In other words, if a 6-volt battery needs the motor to spin at 2000rpm in order to start producing enough power to begin any charging-juice through the (6-volt) battery,, then the revs would have to be increased to at least 2829rpm in order to match that same amount of charging-juice through a 12-volt battery.
__ Anyhow, after you let me know which alt.model you actually have, I'll then give you some suggested options that could work for you.



DUCATIly,
-Bob

[kmev]

Looks like I have the 28 watt - the meter went towards 0 on all three wires. Sounds like it would be better to wire this as a standard 6 volt instead of trying to get 12 out of it?

Below is the inside of my headlight. I believe it's from a Sebring.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" Looks like I have the 28 watt - the meter went towards 0 on all three wires. Sounds like it would be better to wire this as a standard 6 volt instead of trying to get 12 out of it? "

____ Yes, that should be the 28w-model then. _ And that makes perfect sense if it came from the same Scrambler as that frame with the missing bottom to the battery-platform.
___ There's two main choices you could choose to do with your electrical-system! ...
_ First choice, you could keep the electrical-system like stock -(LIKE stock, not exactly the same since you don't have the right type of headlight).
The stock system ran the head & tail lights with just the lighting power-coil, while the ign.coil was run by the other power-coil. - That same coil also provides a small amount of AC-juice (which is half-wave rectified by a diode located it the headlight-shell), that's used to keep the small 6-volt battery charged.
This was a better system than what the pre-1966 Scrambler models had! _ (However this system still suffered with a week headlight at low RPMs!)
_ Second choice, you could leave the ignition set-up as it is, and modify the stator so that the lighting-coil's AC-output can then be full-wave rectified to charge a battery for all the lights! _ Either a 6-volt or 12-volt battery & lights could be employed, however, keep in mind that a 12-volt set-up will require higher RPM running in order to keep the battery fully up.
This choice would be good to go with because for one thing, the plastic-insulation on the three wire-leads connected to the stator-coils are known to go-bad, and since you already have the stator removed from the motor-case, it wouldn't be too smart to reinstall it without renewing those old wires!
Then while you're soldering-in new replacement wires to the stator, you can also add a 4th wire -(from the otherwise grounded lighting-coil).
__ Let me know which system you're most inclined to choose, and we go on from there.


" Below is the inside of my headlight. I believe it's from a Sebring. "

____ Yeah, the electrics inside are that of the Monza & Sebring models! _ So that headlight would not be of much use to you, if you choose to go with a stock Scrambler type system.


Tillater,
DCT-Bob

[kmev]

It sounds like the second system with a fourth wire added is better suited to a modern road bike, and I do indeed need to replace the stator wires. This is not a restoration but a rideable rebuild, so I am not concerned with keeping it to factory specs. At this point I think I'm inclined to go with the 6 volt rather than 12 as this bike will be used around town a lot (hence lower rpms).

Perhaps we should start a new thread, as this really has nothing to do with a hacked off battery tray?

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" This is not a restoration but a rideable rebuild, so I am not concerned with keeping it to factory specs.
Perhaps we should start a new thread, as this really has nothing to do with a hacked off battery tray? "

____ Okay that's a fine notion, I'll start a new thread with an appropriate title.
__ I'm fairly glad that you're like minded as myself, since I've never really cared to retain any of the weak methods or poor parts which Ducati chose to use!


Happy Cheers,
-Bob

[kmev]

Just wanted to follow up with a pic of my new battery box. The paint is crap, but it' simply to prevent rust until I do a proper paint job later this year after I have done a few shakedown runs on the bike. Notice that I filled the hole where the toggle switch was.

Thanks for the help!

Before and after shots.

[DewCatTea-Bob]

" The paint is crap, "

____ Sorta wish you had done the pic before all that black-paint, cuz it's all so dark (on my monitor), that I can't see much very well.


" Notice that I filled the hole where the toggle switch was. "

____ Just how did you do that?

____ What size battery do you plan to fit in that, and does it include any added bracket for mounting the rear-fender with?


DUKE-Cheers,
-Bob

[ajleone]

I had a Yusa 6N4B-2A-5 battery lying around from another project - but it's not going to work, I think for the 66-67 scrambler with battery - a 7Ah is what is spec'ed and I am guessing you will need the same.

Anybody out there know what battery will fit ? The tray size is also the same dimension as the Bronco 125.