Does my engine spin too easily?
Moderator: ajleone
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Re: Does my engine spin too easily?
Since rotor timing is not mandatory, as it is in the non battery ignition bikes, I'm not inclined to rush into that job. Even with a battery ignition, I'm sure that some minimal advantage exists by peaking the alternator output coincident with the points opening. But since I have good spark now, and it runs like a champ I'll adopt a wait a little longer stance. Additionally, since it is bad for the RR to runt without the battery, leaving it so that it can't run without the battery is in a small way a RR preservation measure. If something else comes up requiring me to get under the rotor, I'll probably correct it at that time.
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- Posts: 2897
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- Location: Near SE side of Lake Michigan
Need for Particular Alt.rotor-timing with Battery-ignition ?
" Since rotor timing is not mandatory, as it is in the non battery ignition bikes, I'm not inclined to rush into that job. "
____ Of course that's certainly understandable, and I surely hadn't meant to imply that maladjusted alt.rotor-timing is a fault which needs any required adjustment-attention asap (for battery-powered ignition).
" Even with a battery ignition, I'm sure that some minimal advantage exists by peaking the alternator output coincident with the points opening. "
____ Well I'm not sure I'd agree that the advantages are exactly minimal, but otherwise that thought is quite true, cuz whenever the alternator-output is max.peaking, system-voltage is then at it's highest/strongest point, which will thus saturate the ign.coil somewhat better than if the battery alone is only doing the job.
And in such event when the rotor-timing happens to be set completely-wrong, even though the battery will then receive charge-pulses just before and just after the point when the ign.coil could make some use of a DC-pulse, the battery doesn't hold-up that DC.peak-voltage in-between those pulses. _ And unlike capacitors, a battery doesn't store-up all the electrical-juice which charges it...
The ratio of the amount that's stored, to the amount that passes-through (to be wasted to ground), varies depending on the battery's condition/state,, and however also, when alternator supplied DC-pulses occur when the ignition-circuit is not drawing current-juice, a greater amount of the juice is thus-then wasted (through to ground), compared to when the ignition-circuit is sharing the DC-pulse with the battery. _ So when the DC-pulse as well as the battery's stored-juice are both available together to power-up the ign.coil, then system-voltage can't easily drop (while the ign.coil is powering-up), as would be the case with the battery powering the ign.circuit alone. _ So depending on the battery's state of condition, when the alt.rotor is timed correctly, it's then possible to get a better ign.spark with use of the extra power-juice that would otherwise just be wasted, straight-through the battery to ground.
Thus having an alternator's DC-pulse timed to coincide with the ign.circuit's demand, leads to greater electrical-juice system-efficiency !
" But since I have good spark now, and it runs like a champ I'll adopt a wait a little longer stance. "
____ I believe that's fairly sensible, as ya don't want to be torn-down during riding-season.
I-myself have never bothered to tear-into a (battery-powered) motor just to correct the alt.rotor timing ! _ As I'd always wait until the clutch (or something in there) also needed attention.
__ You just have to keep hopes that your battery never gets run-down somewhere where help can't find you, since you likely won't get going again with just one push-start attempt. _ But if the battery is only run-down due to having left the lights on (while you're inside some-place), then several pushes in 1st-gear may get the battery back-up enough to get a starting-spark. _ (And in such a case, hope you're in good physical-shape.)
" since it is bad for the RR to runt without the battery, leaving it so that it can't run without the battery is in a small way a RR preservation measure. "
____ Indeed so, but perhaps at the expense of a long walk with an ENTIRE valuable-Duke left behind. _ (I-myself would rather chance just having to replace the R.R-unit !)
__ Ya can tell when your (stock) system is running without the battery, as then the lights will flicker brightly.
" If something else comes up requiring me to get under the rotor, I'll probably correct it at that time. "
____ If your Wide-Case (set of three) original alt.stator wire-leads have never been replaced, then look-forward to doing that as well, as their insulation-covering does go bad !
Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob
____ Of course that's certainly understandable, and I surely hadn't meant to imply that maladjusted alt.rotor-timing is a fault which needs any required adjustment-attention asap (for battery-powered ignition).
" Even with a battery ignition, I'm sure that some minimal advantage exists by peaking the alternator output coincident with the points opening. "
____ Well I'm not sure I'd agree that the advantages are exactly minimal, but otherwise that thought is quite true, cuz whenever the alternator-output is max.peaking, system-voltage is then at it's highest/strongest point, which will thus saturate the ign.coil somewhat better than if the battery alone is only doing the job.
And in such event when the rotor-timing happens to be set completely-wrong, even though the battery will then receive charge-pulses just before and just after the point when the ign.coil could make some use of a DC-pulse, the battery doesn't hold-up that DC.peak-voltage in-between those pulses. _ And unlike capacitors, a battery doesn't store-up all the electrical-juice which charges it...
The ratio of the amount that's stored, to the amount that passes-through (to be wasted to ground), varies depending on the battery's condition/state,, and however also, when alternator supplied DC-pulses occur when the ignition-circuit is not drawing current-juice, a greater amount of the juice is thus-then wasted (through to ground), compared to when the ignition-circuit is sharing the DC-pulse with the battery. _ So when the DC-pulse as well as the battery's stored-juice are both available together to power-up the ign.coil, then system-voltage can't easily drop (while the ign.coil is powering-up), as would be the case with the battery powering the ign.circuit alone. _ So depending on the battery's state of condition, when the alt.rotor is timed correctly, it's then possible to get a better ign.spark with use of the extra power-juice that would otherwise just be wasted, straight-through the battery to ground.
Thus having an alternator's DC-pulse timed to coincide with the ign.circuit's demand, leads to greater electrical-juice system-efficiency !
" But since I have good spark now, and it runs like a champ I'll adopt a wait a little longer stance. "
____ I believe that's fairly sensible, as ya don't want to be torn-down during riding-season.
I-myself have never bothered to tear-into a (battery-powered) motor just to correct the alt.rotor timing ! _ As I'd always wait until the clutch (or something in there) also needed attention.
__ You just have to keep hopes that your battery never gets run-down somewhere where help can't find you, since you likely won't get going again with just one push-start attempt. _ But if the battery is only run-down due to having left the lights on (while you're inside some-place), then several pushes in 1st-gear may get the battery back-up enough to get a starting-spark. _ (And in such a case, hope you're in good physical-shape.)
" since it is bad for the RR to runt without the battery, leaving it so that it can't run without the battery is in a small way a RR preservation measure. "
____ Indeed so, but perhaps at the expense of a long walk with an ENTIRE valuable-Duke left behind. _ (I-myself would rather chance just having to replace the R.R-unit !)
__ Ya can tell when your (stock) system is running without the battery, as then the lights will flicker brightly.
" If something else comes up requiring me to get under the rotor, I'll probably correct it at that time. "
____ If your Wide-Case (set of three) original alt.stator wire-leads have never been replaced, then look-forward to doing that as well, as their insulation-covering does go bad !
Hopeful-Cheers,
-Bob
PLEASE NOTE... If this-post is not-yet signed-off with '-Bob', then I'm still in the process of completing it,, and if not also included with 'DCT' near bottom as well, then I may edit this post's wording at a later time. - Dct.Bob
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